Precision Cutting
Techniques
As a young carver it is imperative to practice carving basic shapes before you begin sculpting. Much like drawing, a sculpture is the collection of many basic shapes organized in a way to create the final product. You can see in the angel drawing how ovals squares and triangles can create the drawing. this is also a great way to beginning to understanding how to block in a sculpture, which will be discussed later in the 10 Steps to 3D sculpting.
In drawing, the shapes are flat and one-dimensional. In sculpture, the shapes are three-dimensional. So, a circle becomes a sphere, a triangle becomes a pyramid and a square becomes a cube. With this premise in mind you must be able to create these basic shapes, hence precision carving.
Some of the following techniques help carvers in multiple ways. Most importantly, you must become comfortable with the tools and build some muscle memory.
Muscle Memory is knowing how to hold your tool and being aware of what muscles you need to use in order to make that tool work consistently. This is a subconscious lesson, and by that I mean you will become aware of your muscle memory with time and practice. You will not have to say “Bicep, flex and move the arm to the right”. You will slowly gain knowledge of applying pressure with certain muscles and make body movements that will affect the tools performance. This will happen through practice and repetition.
Precision carving will also enforce the rounding technique. As you move from each shape notice how a rectangle will become an octagon and with further rounding can be defined as a disc (figure B). The same will apply to a cube, which can be converted to a pyramid or sphere. These shapes are achieved through rounding. Remember that when you cut off one corner you will create two more in its place. I call this breaking the corner. For precision cutting we will break the corner 3 times before achieving a rounded surface. Refer to Figure C for breaking the corner.
When a student begins the carving process it is a good idea to carve each of the basic shapes until you have mastered each. By mastering the shape you should be able to the intended shape within a ¼”. This means you want a cube to measure 7” x 7” x 7”, so your finished measurement must be between 6 7/8” to 7 1/8”. That is a window of ¼” and is very achievable.
When carving for precision it is important to not to attempt to make your first cut the final cut. This will not be easier or quicker, in fact this will set you back. For instance, if you are carving a cube you could do it in three easy cuts (some might say easy). The chances of that cube being perfect on all six sides with the equal measurements from edge to edge are just about zero (I might say). You will find that the best way to achieving perfect will be to take a few extra steps.
The knowledge of making basic shapes will build your confidence level. Mastering this will also help you advance in sculpting (any medium) at a much faster rate.
Figure B
Figure C
Figure D
Figure E
Figure F
Channel guide
Second cut
Third Cut
Final cut other side
Figure G
Figure H
This section was heavily influenced by:
Steve Brice
Junichi Nakamura
Cylinder
Step 1.
From the top of a block you will need to scribe a rectangle that is 8” x 8” x 20” long. Since the block is 20” you only need to scribe and cut two sides to start.
Step 2.
Now that your rectangle is cut it is important that the 8” x 8” sides are accurate and square. The length can be cut to any size later. Once you have perfected those two sides you can now use the layout jig to scribe the block. To figure out the scribe measurement you will take the square sides length and multiply by .29 (8 x .29 = 2.32). This number will help you get to the round. Remember that for quick math the measurement is divided by 3, then round down so that the number is between 1/3 and ¼ of the total number (8 / 3 = 2.66 rounded to 2.5). I would go with 2 1/2” on the quick math. The actual number of 2.32 is more accurate but once again should be rounded because most layout jigs do not have that precise measurement. So set the jig at just less than 2 ½”. Scribe the top and bottom squares as shown in the figure to look like the rubiks cube. Now scribe the distance between (20” length).
Step 3.
Now stand your scribed rectangle so it is 20” tall. You will take the chainsaw and cut on the outside of each line to the outside of the other line and cut the corner of the block off. Try to hold the saw steady; do not cut on the line but outside. If you cut on the line you will dig into the cylinder. You will also lose your reference line. Cut all four corners off and move to step 4.
Step 4.
Now from the top view it will look more like and octagon. From here you will use your hand scratchy and run the length of your corner and round each one down. Try to do this evenly and systematically around the cylinder. Count your strokes if necessary. After each corner has been knocked of you will now have created two more corners. Repeat this process until the corners are round.
Step 5.
You are nearly finished. Spend some time now with the hand sand paper to smooth your finish. Do not attempt to use a power tool as it will create flat spots and edges, and since you are trying to achieve the round this is no good.
Sphere
Step 1.
Start out with a perfect cube. For now we will continue to use a cube that measures 7” x 7” x 7”. It is important that your cube be perfect. Using the same formula as before you will scribe the rubiks cube marks all the way around the cube. (7 x .29 = 2.03) or (7 / 3 = 2.33 and round down to 2.25 or 2 ¼”. So set the jig between 2 and 2 ¼”.
Step 2.
Just like the cylinder you will now cut, from one view, four corners cutting from line to line. Now this can get confusing so look at the cube from one view and cut all four corners off before moving on. Remember to cut outside the line.
Step 3.
Turn the cube on its side and cut for more corners off. Some of the reference lines from this view will be gone because you cut them off in step two. Remember to cut outside the line. Just imagine the line or rescribe your line with an ice pick. Your shape now has 14 sides to it.
Step 4.
Turn the cube once more. This view is much more difficult to imagine but you must look for and find your last four corners to remove. Remember to cut outside the line. Once this is done you will have what looks like a 3D octagon.
Step 5.
Now your 3D octagon is in shape and one thing you should know about your octagon is that each shape you see that has a flat spot, well in the very center of each shape is the outermost point of your sphere. With that in mind you do not want to remove any ice that is in the exact center of that shape or your sphere will not be perfect. From hear you will take the hand scratchy and nock down each visible corner on your shape trying to take it to round. This will take some time so be patient. Also try and be very systematic. Take equal amounts of ice off on each corner so your ball does not turn out lob sided.
Step 6.
This is the fun part. I know that steps 3 to 5 may have been confusing and frustrating but this is where it all pays off. Looking at your shape you may think this is never going to work, but pick up the sphere shaper anyway. This tool is simple and very cheap to make. It is a bowl with screws around the edges or rim. The concept of this aggressive sander is that the points or round parts of the ball will fit into the bowl allowing the screws to cup the sphere and sand in the round. It is very simple just scratch that sphere shaper all over your ball until all the flat spots are no longer visible. You will know when the flat spots are gone when your ball is equally covered with rough texture from your screws and this will not happen until the sphere is almost perfectly round.
Step 7.
Once again grab your hand sand paper and go to town. Sand it down until it is free from all your screw marks and textures. Once you think it is ready you can clean with water (best to dunk it in a bucket of water and roll it around). Now you will see a nearly perfect sphere.
Summary
If you are serious about becoming an ice sculptor it is important for you to master all of these basic shapes. Practice each until you can carver each with precision and speed. This will also help you to acquaint yourself with the tools, especially the chainsaw. Since the chainsaw is used on roughly 75% of all ice sculpture you need to be comfortable with the tool as well as precise. These exercises will help build muscle memory and reinforce basic premise for rounding.
Notes
Cut outside the scribe line. If you cut on the line you will be cutting into your shape.
The closer you come to finish the less you will want to use a power tool. Many of the shapes (especially rounded surfaces) should be finished with hand sanding.
When splitting the block you will probably not get it on the first try. Don’t give up and keep practicing. Even if you have access to a lumber mill this exercise should still be a priority.
When you cut off one corner your create two more in its place, this is breaking the corner. Break the corner at least three times. Rounding will be complete when all corners are removed.
Muscle memory can only be obtained by using the tools so practice, practice, and practice some more.
Do not carve any sculptures until these basic shapes are mastered.
Disc
Step 1.
From a slab you will cut a square that measures 15” x 15”
Step 2.
Using a level or some form of straight edge and ice pick we will find the center of the square. Scribe a line from corner to corner. The intersection of these points are the center of your square.
Step 3.
Using a compass scribe a circle on to the top of the square.
Step 4.
With the block laying on its face (so it is 4 ¾” tall) on ethafoam, you will use your chainsaw and cut the corners of the block. This will be four cuts and is shown in figure D. Be sure to cut outside the circle line. If you cut the line you will not have a perfect circle. After your cuts are made the line should still be visible.
Step 5.
Now that you have cut of four corners you will have eight more in their place. So remain on the outside of the circle line an cut the remaining corners down. That will be all for the chainsaw.
Step 6.
Now take the hand scratchy and you will round the rest of the corners by hand. This is very easy and works quickly. Be sure to take to edges down all the way to the circle line. You may want to turn the disk over and finish the other side. It helps to keep the disc over a tables edge for this step so you can completely scratch down each corner.
Step 7.
You may now sand the top and bottom of the disc with a sander. On the round edges it is best to finish using hand sand paper
Octagon
Step 1.
From a slab you will cut a square that measures 15” x 15”
Step 2.
As shown in figure A you will scribe the square all the way around so the top view appears to look like a rubiks cube. You will multiply the length by.29 (15 x .29 = 4.35). The number 4.35 is the actual number to give you a perfect octagon. At this point I would set the layout jig somewhere between 4 ¼” and 4 ½”. When you look at the scribe lines you should notice that the center square is the largest. For quick math you can simply divide the length by 3 and set the jig to be less than 1/3 the total length. The key is make sure the center square is the largest square.
Step 3.
Now cut the corners from scribe line to line and you have your octagon. The reason the center square is the largest is because when you cut the corner off the length will be longer than the center square (if you use all equal squares).
Cone
The cone will start out as a cuboid that measures 20” tall x 8” wide x 8” deep.
Step 1.
If you have a 8” bottom surface then you will need to set the layout jig at 3 1/2”, now scribe the top on all sides. This will leave you with a center point.
Step 2.
Using a level you will connect a line from the bottom corner of the cuboid to the center of the cuboid, this will make a triangle. Do this on two sides for visual reference.
Step 3.
Using a chainsaw cut on the outside of the lines from one direction. You will notice that you have now cut off your other lines. That is OK. I wanted you to visualize what was going to happen next.
Step 4.
Now take the level and make a line (from the side you cut the lines of) from the next side to be cut. Cut on the outside of these lines as well.
Step 5.
Now cut the four long corners, this will begin the rounding process. Refer to figure 2. Remember when you cut one corner of you create two more corners.
Step 6
Use a hand scratchy to run along the 8 new corners you have created.
Step 7
Finish with hand sanding with 32-grit sandpaper
Pyramid
The pyramid will start out with a cube.
Step 1.
If you have a 7” cube then you will need to set the layout jig at 3 ½”. You will scribe the top on all sides. This will leave you with a center point.
Step 2.
Using a level you will connect a line from the bottom corner of the cube to the center of the cube, this will make a triangle. Do this on two sides for visual reference.
Step 3.
Using a chainsaw cut on the outside of the lines from one direction. You will notice that you have now cut off your other lines. That is OK. I wanted you to visualize what was going to happen next.
Step 4.
Now take the level and make a line (from the side you cut the lines of) from the next side to be cut. Cut on the outside of these lines as well. Once all the cuts are made take your pyramid shape to the aluminum and see the light make beautiful colors through your perfect prism.
Cube
From first glance it may appear that making a perfect cube is easy and can be done with three cuts. I do not believe that this is hard but it is somewhere in the middle of difficult and easy. When cutting the cube you do not want to try to make it perfect with the first couple cuts. In fact you should start out the cut out with about ¼” cushion all the way around. If you want a cube that is 7” x 7” x 7” I would start out with 7 ¼” setting on the lay out jig. And actually that is where we will start.
Step 1.
Start block in upright position (40” tall x 20” wide x 10” thick)
Using a Carpenters Square pick the corners of the ice that best represent square and scribe from those sides. The corners should be nice with no chips or cracks.
Step 2.
Set lay out jig at 7 ¼” and scribe three times on one corner of the block.
The dotted line is your cut line and the hard line is the size you are attempting to achieve.
Step 3.
Using your chainsaw cut on the outside of your dotted line or scribe lines. This will require three cuts.
Step 4.
Now you should have your cube roughed in at about 7 ¼” all the way around. Now you have to perfect your cube on all six sides. Use the carpenter’s square to check all sides and corners of the cube making sure they are square. If some corners need adjusting use a sander to push the line or corner to square. Do not use the sander on the entire surface unless absolutely necessary. You can also use a small nail board or hand scratchy.
Step 5.
Now that you’re close, take the cube to hot aluminum and quickly touch all sides of the cube. Try and keep each side on the aluminum for equal time so that it melts down evenly all the way around. After completing this step you should now be down to a beautiful finish that is very close to 7” cubed
Rectangle (Footers)
Footers are often referred to as the base of a sculpture. The standard size footer that we use for single block carvings are 20” x 9 1/2” x 4 ¾”. So to make footers is quite easy, simply lay your slab on its side so it is 20” tall and 40” long (on a level surface with a piece of ethafoam underneath) figure H. You will have four footers from one slab or figure on 8 per block. I often make footers from blocks of ice that are unclear or faltered in some way. Being on the bottom your eye does not notice the imperfections of a base piece (or footer).
Step 1.
Start slab on its side.
Step 2.
Set lay out jig at 9 ½” and Scribe from one end.
Step 3.
Using the chainsaw simply cut in a downward motion and your footer (rectangle) is complete.
Footers are made with one cut and used for the base of logos or smaller sculptures. We do not perfect our footers until the sculpture is put together and completed.
Squaring the Can
If you are working with can ice it is a good idea to square the can before splitting the block. If you are carving Clinebell ice please skip this step and go directly to step 2.
Step 1.
Lay the block on side so it is 20” tall and 45” long (on a level surface) the block should hang over each side of the carving pedestal. Refer to Figure D.
Step 2.
Apply template (wood or cardboard) and trace edge with an ice pick, be sure the template is in the center of the block so you will have to cut three sides. Notice that the can is tapered so the top must be cut level. It is important that the carving pedestal is level.
Step 3.
Using your chain saw cut the can to fit the size of your template. Cut on the outside of each line so you will keep the original dimension. (Note, if you cut on the line you will lose the ¼” with the cut. This will make the block smaller than intended. Carving on the inside of the line, or template, will magnify this problem. By cutting on the outside the line or template you will hold the true shape.
Step 4.
After the cuts are made come back over each surface with the nail board. Rubbing each cut will flatten the side and take it to a perfect finish. (This is why your block should hang over each side so you can properly nail board)
Splitting the Block
There is a great tool available called an Alaskan lumber mill that can be attached to you saw that will serve as a guide to cutting perfect slabs. This is a very useful tool and should be used if available. In some shops you may see large band saws that are used to trim ice and cut slabs. These are even better than the mill because the band saw makes a more perfect cut and you lose less ice because the cutting tool is much thinner. However, I still recommend that you practice and perfect the split block method because this will only help you familiarize your self with cutting straight. It is important that you know how to hold your chainsaw and work the bar tip.
Splitting a block of ice is common in the ice carving industry and is very useful for breaking down the carving block. The original block measures 40” tall x 20” wide and 10” thick. The block will be split to create two 4 ¾” thick slabs of ice that measure 40” tall x 20” wide. This slab is commonly used for snow-filled logos or can be broken down to a footer size block (20” x 10” x 4 ¾”).
Now you may ask why is the split block not measured at 5”? The reason is that the chainsaw bar and chain eat about ¼” of the ice during the cut. This loss in ice is an important fact to know. On some cuts losing that ¼” and not knowing why, could affect your final product.
Start with the block standing upright (40” tall 20” wide 10”thick). We will make a couple of passes before splitting the block completely. The reason for this is that you do not want to be to aggressive and end up making a big mistake. More often than not if you attempt to make the block split with two cuts the bar may go in different directions and not meet in the middle. This process will help alleviate this problem.
Step 1.
First score the block all the way around on each side using the layout jig that is set at 4 7/8” as shown in figure A. This will give you two lines that are a ¼” apart. That ¼” channel you have just made is the cut channel. Stay in between the two lines and you will remain in the center of you block all the way around. Figure E.
Step 2.
The first cut is represented in figure F. Cut 1 will go all around the block and be in-between the two scribe lines at about a 3” depth. This will now be referred to as your channel guide.
Step 3.
Following your channel guide you will pick one side to cut from. In figure E the cuts will now go from left to right. The second cut will follow the channel guide and you will cut in another 4”. You are now 7” – 8” deep on one side.
Step 4.
The third cut will be made from the same side you have started with, in this case the left side. Follow the channel guide and this time bury the saw (bar and chain) to the full depth. Use the channel to help keep you straight, now you are only cutting with the first 5” or 6” of your saw. This makes it easier to keep a straight line with your saw.
Step 5.
Now that you are 12” to 14” in on one side of your block you can go around to the right side of your block. Refer to figure G. Using your channel guide put the tip of your chainsaw into the center of your cut and the heel of your saw in the channel guide on the right of your block. Now the chainsaw tip is in the open channel and the only cutting part of the saw is the bottom of the bar. Follow these channels straight down and try to feel the tip of your saw in the channel (not with your fingers but with the tension of the cut). The saw will grab in a downward motion on to the ice and follow that guide.
Now the block is split and you have two equal slabs.
Section Overview
Squaring a can block
Splitting the block
Rounding
Muscle Memory
Shapes you will carve:
Rectangle (footers)
Cube
Pyramid
Cone
Octagon
Disc
Cylinder
Sphere
Tools needed:
Carving Pedestal
Chainsaw with 12” or 14” bar
14” Recommended for the split
Lay out jig
Block template (made of wood or cardboard)
Measures 20” x 40”
Carpenters square
Nail board
Poly Plank Ethafoam 2”
Ice Pick
Table
Aluminum
Iron
Hand scratchy board
Sander
Sand paper 32-grit
Compass
Ice pick
Sphere Shaper
16” sphere carved by Paul Ray using our method.
