•1/4” Straight End mill
•Roscoe bit
•7 degree Tapered End mill
•Larger version of the tapered End Mill
Pictured left to right
End mills have at least two cutting spiraling surfaces (two flutes) and cut ice very nicely. Any of these bits come highly recommended. The Roscoe is great for fine detailing and the tapered end mills are good for leaving heavy detail lines. The larger tapered is great for speed carving because it can detail and shape at the same time.
Straight end mills with 3/8” shaft
Needs adaptor
(could be expensive but is worth the purchase!)
These have a 3/8” shaft so you will need the adaptor to run this on a die grinder. The first is 1/8” and next is the 1/4” and both cut ice nicely. The smaller can leave fine detail and the larger is better suited for burying template lines and can be used to help a carver created depth or layers by 2” margins when you begin the blocking in stage of carving. The shaft adaptor is a good purchase because you can buy these end mills from almost any tool and die company for very cheap.
Larger 1/2” shank end mills with 4” cutting surfaces
1/2” shank Shaft adaptor required for 1/2” mills
The adaptor is expensive but will allow you to purchase cheaper end mills. The size of theses bits allows to burry reference lines and maintain precise curves during cutout. This is can be an alternative to the Brice Zip Cutter, just not as good. This tool may also be modified by cutting ridge lines into the cutting edge of the spiral. This will mimic the zip cutter and then may be used for shaping
Rounded Bits
These are great bits for pebbling detail. They create a dimpled surface or a shiny gouge line that can look like soft fur. The bit is inexpensive and creates a nice texture.
•Needle bit
•1/8” End mill
•Short and long
Pictured left to right
Needle bit is a great value. All these bits fit in a dremel and can be used for fine detail lines. The longer 1/8” straight bit is even less expensive. All of these bits are good for writing small letters or tracing a complicated template with ease.
•Brice Bits:
-Long zip cutter 7”
-Zip cutter 4”
•Face Bit
•Junichi bit
Pictured left to right
These bits are great for many reasons. The zip cutters can shape and bury deep lines. The face bit has nice rounded cutting tip to get into hard to reach places and the Junichi bit makes nice detail lines at almost any depth and can shape as well. The zip cutters are easily sharpened. All are recommended for the serious carver.
•Shaft adaptor
•Green Burr
•Super/Bullet Burr (orange)
•Wood burrs (silver)
•Small burr for dremel
Pictured left to right
There are many burs. Find one that fits your price range and learn to use it. The green and blue burs can be purchased most anywhere and are inexpensive comparatively. The orange super burr made for ice, more expensive is the preferred burr for the serious dedicated ice carver. Larger burrs need the shaft adaptors to run on the makita die grinder. The small burr is great and least expensive, good for shaping faces.
•V-bits
Small and Medium
Pictured left to right
A favorite when it comes time to detailing your sculptures. This leaves a V-shape cut much like the v-chisel that reflects the light nicely. Unlike the V-chisel a V-bit can make curved line which makes for quick detail and is great for buffet sculptures. Highly recommended.
Bottle bits
•1 1/2” paddle bit
•2” candle bit for votives
•Bottle bit for standard size wine bottles
•Bottle bit for Liter size
Pictured left to right
The smaller two are for putting candles or votives in the ice. Just recess the bit 1” and the votive sits nicely in the hole. The larger ones are great for creating bottle displays. You can use a standard drill and this tool will make you look like a precision cutting master. Highly recommend.
Long drill bits for luges
This can be used to cut a whole through the ice sculpture for liquor to flow through. The top one works, just as good. The bottom one is 22” and cuts
great.
Various bits
Many of these bits are from the “Old School” era of ice carving. Many of these bits have since been modified or reinvented to work better for ice. The Silver cone may be the only
exception, (for the serious carver) it can be useful because it is not aggressive and slows the shaping process. All others are not anecessity to have.
If you know of a tool that should be listed in this section please contact us. You can take a picture of the tool write a brief description and tell us if you recommend or do not recommend it for other carvers. Email it to us and we will be happy to put it on the site.
Larger 1/4” shank end mills for use in a regular die grinder.
No adaptor needed
These larger end mills have had their shafts ground down so they fit a standard die grinder (do not run these bits on a chicago DG due to vibration issues) This bit will allow you to bury reference lines and maintain precise curves during cut out. This tool may also be modified by cutting ridge lines into the cutting edge of the spiral. This will mimic the zip cutter and then may be used for shaping. If you have 2 or 4 spiral cutting edges that is referred to as “two flute” or “4 flute.